Bath and Body Works used VariBlend’s dual dispenser for its Dial a Shimmer, in which the user can dial from a body lotion to a shimmering gel.

Science Behind the Scenes

Anti-aging skin care formulations enhanced with enzymes and antioxidants are matched with lab-worthy packaging for a compelling science-meets-nature beauty story.

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

If autologous injectables (fillers seeded from your own tissue) or other surgical procedures are out of your budgetary or emotional reach, there’s a plethora of cosmeceutical products that promise similar youth-prolonging results. From snail slime to oak extract, caffeine to antioxidants, a range of offerings targets baby boomers and others with a scientific-sounding approach. Adding to the ingredients story is an impressive collection of packaging, from tubes to droppers to airless bottles, which mirror a laboratory look and a clinical-like application.

While the word cosmeceutical has no real scientific basis—it is purely a marketing term—according to Wikipedia, the moniker tends to describe “cosmetic products with a biologically active ingredient purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits.”

A recent Mintel report, “Anti-aging Skincare-U.S.,” notes: “To encourage consumers to continue buying anti-aging products, many manufacturers have marketed their brands with scientific claims and natural positioning as a way to emphasize that using these products is not only necessary, but natural.

And the strategy has been an effective one. In their efforts to reverse signs of aging, many women—and a growing number of men—are reaching for these products for line filling and sealing, collagen plumping, fading dark spots, deflating puffiness, decreasing pores and the like.

A Beauty Bright Spot

In an economy where some consumers have pulled back on beauty purchases, anti-aging remains a bright spot in both mass and prestige markets. Several recent studies have shown the power of products that offer the lure of youthful skin. Women have reported purchasing these types of products even though they don’t really believe they will be effective at stopping the aging process. What’s more, they often choose the more expensive offering, half-convinced that more money buys more efficacy. And while cosmeceutical formulations have expanded from skin to body to hair, if consumers have to choose due to economic reasons, they seem to purchase for face over body; after all, the face gets the most exposure. In sync with the trend, the cosmeceutical hair care category continues to grow as well, with consumers seeking the same benefits for hair as for facial skin, and an optimistic scenario is predicted for the entire market.

A $5.8 Billion U.S. Market

A research study by the Freedonia Group places the value of the U.S. cosmeceutical industry at $5.8 billion, and predicts demand for cosmeceuticals in the U.S. will increase 7.4% annually through 2012, driven by an aging population seeking to maintain the appearance of youth. Antioxidants, says Freedonia, will remain the largest chemical category, while botanicals and enzymes remain among the best opportunities. Injectables and skin care products, according to the market research firm, will register the fastest growth.

Both mass and prestige markets count on cosmeceuticals to boost sales. Mintel expects sales of anti-aging skin care products sold through FDMx to grow by 46% from 2010-2015, an increase of 35% (adjusted for inflation), while a recent study from The NPD Group showed continued growth in the prestige market.

Ensuring Compatibility

Many products touted as cosmeceuticals feature natural and organic ingredients, requiring packaging to protect sensitive formulations, as well as to showcase them.

Earl Trout, director of marketing for MWV’s Personal and Beauty Division, says there has been growing demand for organic products, specifically in Europe. He says, “Consumers are more and more concerned about the nature of the ingredients the cosmetic products contain.”

Clinique’s new Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour Eye Colour is infused with an antioxidant-rich blend, and features a unique “cooling” applicator.

In addition, Des McEttrick, market development director, North America Beauty, Aptar, says, “We see a trend toward preservative-free or lower preservative formulas.” For preservative-free products, she says, “The biggest challenge is to guarantee the sterility of the formula throughout its development cycle.”

The use of natural ingredients without preservatives has also affected how products are tested prior to use.Kari Sinner, a packaging consultant at Tricor Braun, says that testing is particularly important in the cosmeceutical industry.

“As the trend moves to natural and organic ingredients,” says Sinner, “there are several new raw materials that are being used in formulas that have not previously been used in these types of products. Many natural ingredients change color or thicken over time so the packaging needs to adapt to those issues. Using UV inhibitors and opaque colors on the bottles helps.”

Lesley Gadomski, vice president of sales, Fusion Packaging, says the green trend can extend to the packaging. “In the past couple of years, there has been a definite trend in which customers look to offer their products in a more ‘green’ packaging solution such as all plastic, polypropylene, where possible.However, ‘green’ does not always translate into the look and feel a customer and or line is looking for in order to achieve their overall branding strategy. Sometimes it is a combination of both to meet the customer’s needs.”

Most important, says Gadomski, is that packaging has to keep pace with cosmeceutical formulations.

“Because the ingredients and formulas that are in these types of products are very active and aggressive,” Gadomski says, “companies need special packaging to protect their formulas and to provide the best possible products and solutions for their end users.”

Trout says with consumers increasingly interested in organic and eco-friendly beauty products, special packaging requirements have become a driver for the brand objective or the need of the formulation. “Depending on formulation,” he says, “some of these natural products perform best in a specific type of packaging. The brand-owner needs to determine what combination of packaging options will deliver on the brand promise while ensuring product efficacy.”

“The packaging is not a simple container anymore,” McEttrick adds. “It also ensures the protection of the formulas.”She says protective packaging is often used for very sensitive formulas, so materials must be carefully selected to be compatible with the formulas and also ensure maximal airtightness.”

Irresistible, launched this year by Aptar, is a patented pump that McEttrick says guarantees absolute protection for preservative-free formulas. “This pump is ideal for no- or lower preservative formulas and uses sterilizing filters and a stop valve to prevent bacteria from entering the package, she says. Irresistible is available in either an airless or atmospheric package version.

Airless Reigns

With anti-aging skin care leading the cosmeceuticals market, airless packaging plays a prominent role, as it offers a convenient, safe and uncontaminated delivery, while also promising complete evacuation of high-cost formulations.

In regard to materials, Trout says brand owners may need to watch for metal contact or weight loss. If metal contact is a formulation concern, he says, then an all-plastic system or one with a metal-free fluid path is a necessity. He says these concerns can impact the efficacy of the formulation but can be controlled with the right pump and container materials.

3Rx Aids Extreme Skin Damage Andrew Levenkron, a beauty industry veteran, developed the 3Rx Skin Therapy product line when his wife was treated for cancer. She’s now cancer-free, but he became all too aware of the skin damage caused by chemotherapy and radiation, as well as other dry skin issues caused by medical conditions. The three products he developed to renew, restore and rejuvenate skin include a gentle foaming cleanser, targeted serum and a daily body repair system—all designed for super hydration thanks to the brand’s patented hyluronan technology Hydrasponge System, which Levenkron says holds 100 times its weight in water, making the delivery system to skin so effective. In addition, a portion of all proceeds benefits the 3Rx Foundation, which raises money through product sales and donations to provide funding to help find a cure for cancer and other dry skin conditions. More info: www.3rxskintherapy.com

MWV offers airless dispensers for facial skin care and skin nutrients—specifically with its Pearl systems.

Gadomski says Fusion provides packaging solutions from airless designs to atmospheric pumps in polypropylene and a vast array of other materials. In addition, she says, Fusion offers a pump engine that is metal-free, “which is perfect for the cosmeceutical market because of its lack of contact with the product itself.The spring never comes into contact with the product, making the package and its product path more compatible with these types of special formulas.”

As to processes, Trout says most cosmeceutical formulations are fine with existing packaging, filling, and distribution solutions today. However, he points out: “If a formulation has a high sensitivity to oxygen exposure, for example with complete preservative-free formulations, then finding a filling line that can control that exposure is critical.”

Pharma Approach

In an effort to boost sales of OTC products, a number of brands have introduced products in packaging that conveys a more prescription-based appeal, incorporating droppers, syringes and glass or glass-like bottles.

Trout says there is a tendency for cosmetic products to go to market with a pharma-like approach. Not only have the formulations become more effective in providing more benefits, but also the packages themselves tend to look more like a pharmaceutical as a way to further distinguish the product in the marketplace.

PKG Group, LLC, in partnership with YONWOO Korea, has introduced a new apothecary-type line called Crystal Round, which looks like glass. Available in 15-, 30- and 50ml—it was designed with a cosmeceutical look, and also allows for high-speed filling. Pharmaceutical-looking amber and cobalt blue (perfect for a men’s line) bottles provide instant impact, though the design is available with the capability for custom color matching.

The PETG bottles are compatible with aggressive formulations, and the airless system features a non-metal contact dispensing system, so it’s ideal for eye serums, and treatments for face, neck and décolletage. How the system works: High-speed fill and snap on the pump—which comes pre-assembled with the over cap in place—and you’re ready to go.

No matter which airless dispenser a brand decides on, Alex Silberstein, of Mega Pumps, stresses the necessity of sourcing “the right package.” He cautions, “Brands can find a lot of ‘airless’ systems in the market, but there are more airless ‘knock-offs’ than true airless packages. One needs to be very cautious when sourcing an airless component.”

Silberstein says some of the airless pumps are using modified dip tube technology, which was never intended to be airless. “An airless pump,” he says, “must be strong enough to create a vacuum and robust enough to be reliable during consumer use. A marketer who is spending so much energy to create a sophisticated formula cannot waste time and money dealing with pump failures and other consumer complaints related to packaging.”

Last-Minute Mixing

Another trend with cosmeceuticals is with the final application process.

McEttrick of Aptar, says, “We see a trend toward ‘mix it’ packaging, where the consumer adds active ingredients into the serum at the last minute.” She gives SkinErgetic by Biotherm as an example.

In another “mix-it” technology, VariBlend offers a dual-dispensing system that allows the custom blending of two formulas, based on the technology of“variable ratio dispensing.” Customers can create a formula that is uniquely their own by simply turning a dial. The package has been used by brands such as Bath & Body Works and Revlon.

The patented system features two separate chambers, each of which holds a different formula; for instance, a skin care product with a lotion and a serum, or a cosmetic product with two different shades. As the dial-type dispenser head is turned, an actuating disc activates the pump pistons at different angles. The “mix” of the two different formulas from their respective chambers is delivered based on the setting of the user’s choice.

Dede Yoder, vice president of business development, says the VariBlend dual dispenser is ideal for products that come in multiple strengths, require ingredient segregation, offer shade/color selection, or need mixing and blending. The container is available in airless or non-airless vented bottles in various stock and custom sizes.

Sealing the Deal

Uncompromised safety of formulations does not always end with the container itself. With growing concerns regarding contamination, some brands are guarding products with additional protection. For example, Walter H. Jelly offers Viskring celon safety seal bands for bottles, jars and other containers. These are tubular bands made from a renewable resource (soft wood) of cellulose and stored in a special preservative solution. The solution suspends the natural shrink action of the bands until they are applied by hand, and dry through the process of evaporation, thus exerting a continuous clinging action to the bottle, jar or container.

Future Growth

Whether with seals, dial-up mixers, airless bottles—or new innovations—packaging will continue to play a critical role in bringing safe, uncontaminated, sensitive and aggressive formulations to consumers throughout the world.